To quote Seiko, the idea of Grand Seiko was a simple one: “To build a watch that would be as precise, durable, easy to wear, and as beautiful as humanly possible.” It also answered the question of whether or not Seiko could compete against the exacting standards set forth by the seemingly indomitable Swiss masters. Seiko accomplished both with resounding aplomb. The very first Grand Seiko, the J14070 more commonly known by the 3180 movement it housed, arrived in 1960, and in fairness appeared much like most other dress styles of the day. The manually wound 25 jewel movement, however, met a tight tolerance of -3/ +12 seconds per day qualifying it as a chronometer by Seiko’s internal standards. Four years later, the followup to the 3180 brought a style all its own, and the 43999 was equally impressive both inside and out. Stylistically, this early 57GS is where we see the ground work of Taro Tanaka’s “Grammar of Design” begin to be laid in the case architecture, and the first to feature Zaratsu polishing techniques. Larger, and bolder than its predecessor, it was also the first Grand Seiko with a date complication. The hand wound Cal. 430 movement in this earlier variant would be renamed in later iterations as 5722, and also met Seiko’s chronometer standards. Two dial variants of these early 57GS models were produced: the AD (Applied Dial), and the SD (Special Dial). The dial code can be found along the lower border of the dial between the seven and five o’clock markers, but each also carried a dial emblem above the six resembling a six or eight pointed star respectively. The 57GS would go on to be produced in some variation until 1968, and for many enthusiasts, it embodies those early “grand” ideals set forth by Seiko.

This example from January of 1964 is incredible. A very early 43999 variant, it’s “SD” silver sunburst dial is stunning. The white gold applied markers have retained a high polish shimmer, and the dial printing beneath the lacquer shows only the slightest signs of bleeding. The massive flat dauphine hands have no oxidation, and the long contoured sweep nearly touches the chapter ring. The case is unpolished with minor wear, and the original “W over Seiko” crown is still in place. The screw down case back features the “Lion” medallion in gold, and exhibits only moderate wear. The delicate reference embossing has mostly worn away, but is still visible and legible. The 18,000 bph 430 driving the hands is keeping near perfect time post service, and winds and sets smoothly. The date can be quickset via the crown in the second position. This example is completely original, including a sourced NOS Seiko acrylic crystal. We’ve paired it with a smooth saddle leather with white stitching to complement the dial, and provide a comfortable fit and finish. A GS legend, its an incredible time piece inside and out, and sure to be at the top of any rotation.

CNS Smooth Saddle Brown Leather with White Stitch

Serviced 5/22/23

Diameter- 37mm

Lugs- 19mm