Though technically not a Grand Seiko (and according to the COSC, not technically a chronometer either), the 6245 (date), and 6246 (day/date) -9000 is both... or neither. In all honesty, the semantics matter little, but certainly make for an interesting story. The Seikomatic (Seiko Automatic) line was first introduced in 1960, and within a few short years was an establishment for Seiko’s mid-range automatic flagships. Across mutiple styles and calibers, the Seikomatic lineup continued to showcase Seiko’s achievements in technological and architectural innovation. In 1966, these efforts culminated in the introduction of the Seikomatic “62” model: A watch so accurate, Seiko chose to note it’s chronometer tolerance twice; once on the dial, and again on the rotor. Shortly after hitting the market, however, the COSC presented Seiko with a “cease and desist” letter stating that any watch bearing the “chronometer” badge must first be certified by the Swiss observatory at Neuchatel, and more or less regarded the term as a trademark. Rather than submit to the inferior Swiss tolerances, Seiko politely removed “chronometer” from is vernacular, only to return the following year with the “Grand Seiko Standard” of -3 / +8. The Seikomatic Chronometer was now the 62GS, and officially the first self-winding Grand Seiko. 

Indistinguishable outside of a few design details, the 9000 and the 9001 models, four in total (a date, and day/date for each), are beautifully constructed following Taro Tanaka’s “Grammar of Design,” and have a crisp, reflective, almost faceted appearance. A clean bezel free mid-case with sloping angular lugs, and a contoured profile. This example from February of 1966 is simply stunning. The dial is a silver sunburst with deep graining that radiates light at every angle. It’s framed by a dropped chapter with a subtle minute track that seamlessly meets the polished retaining ring of the acrylic crystal. The applied baguette markers are beveled toward the dial, and some light oxidation is visible in the polished finish. The hands are broad dauphines that taper to a fine point with a sharply beveled edge along each side. The slender sweep has a long tail, and reaches all the way into the minute track. The dial printing is crisp and free of fading or bleeding beneath the lacquer finish. The case back has retained its delicate etching with very little wear, and the Lion medallion has kept every detail with no metal loss. The 39j 6246A is keeping near chronometer time post service, and the date can be quickset via the crown. The day can be semi-quickset. We’ve paired it with an oiled sienna  leather with white stitching that offers a premium fit and finish. It’s unpolished and completely original aside from a replacement crystal, and will no doubt, be a highlight any any collection. Extremely rare in both condition and availability, this is the first and likely last we’ll have the opportunity to offer.

Kvarnsjo Leather Retro Oiled Sienna Leather with White Stitch

Serviced 3/25/21

Diameter- 36mm

Lugs- 19mm