Seiko’s first iteration of the “Navigator Timer,” the 6117-8000, has become a sought after relic of Seiko aviation history. A monochromatic masterpiece, it features a smoky charcoal gray sunburst dial with a glossy lacquer finish. Framing the dial is a seamless chapter ring with minute hashes and large luminous plots at the hours, and a wide coin edge bezel with a sterile 24 hour insert. It’s minimal and understated, and that’s exactly what makes it the perfect tool watch. This example from August of ‘68 is a true stunner. The dial is perfect, and the heavy sunburst grain beneath the finish creates a radial light show with every turn of the wrist. The glossy black chapter is contrasted with matte silver minute hashes, and the luminous plots at the hours are free of any degradation. The large batons are legible at a glance, and have retained their original mirror polished finish. The bright red 24 hour hand is the only drop of color amid the grayscale layout, and it is free of any chipping or paint loss. The bezel rotates smoothly in either direction, and the spring has been adjusted to provide just enough tension to remain set once positioned. Though free of fading, the insert does bear some light, even wear. The numeric and bar hour markers are easily legible in a vivid black. The luminous pip is the original, and its acrylic lens is still intact. The case is crisp with visible factory finishes, sharp corners, and this marks the first instance we’ve been able to say it comes attached to the original bracelet. Nearly impossible to find, it’s a flat five-link that’s well suited, and offers a comfortable fit and finish. It’s unpolished and completely original aside from a replacement crystal, and post service is keeping near perfect time. Robust, reliable, and certainly rare, it’s bound to be a GMT favorite in any timezone.

Original Seiko Flat Five Link Bracelet in Stainless Steel

Serviced 10/17/22

Diameter- 38mm

Lugs- 19mm