For fans of mid-century minimalism, the “Seikomatic” lineup could serve as a master class in execution. Representing Seiko’s first foray into self-winding luxury, it quickly became the standard and a brand flagship throughout the 1960’s. Built on the cal. 62 platform, Seikomatics evolved from an elegant time only layout, to include a date complication (self dater), and a later day/date (week dater). Eventually, the 62 would be further refined and housed in the first automatic Grand Seiko, the 62GS. Seiko’s first automatic with a date complication appeared in 1962 as the 24j cal. 394. A year later, the Self Dater model would reach it’s pinnacle with the release of the J13085. In a newly designed “waterproof” case, it featured solid stainless steel construction and a screw down case back to protect the cal. 395 and its veritable treasure chest of 39 jewels. Rated to 50m, it is the overachiever of the Seikomatic line, and a true “jewel” for any collector. This example from January of 1963 is an absolute stunner. Easily one of the cleanest we’ve ever seen, it marks only the third time in our history we’ve had one to offer. The dial, with its AD designation, is a flawless silver sunburst beneath a glossy lacquer finish, and set with applied baguettes as well as an applied Seikomatic “Spinning Top” badge. With only four lines of text, each in a distinct font, the dial is beautifully balanced in mesmerizing detail. The hour and minute hands are chopped and beveled dauphines with a mirror polished finish, and a slender hacking sweep counts the seconds. A framed date window sits at three, and a lone spot of color can be found in the bright blue “50” at mid dial. The case architecture is classic and elegant with beveled lugs, a thin bezel, and flush recessed crown at four. The case back has a raised dodecagonal hub, though like most, the etched embossing has worn heavily over the last 60 years, but is still some what visible. At center is the dolphin and “39” crown motif that signal this was Seiko’s highest quality waterproof design at the time. It’s a knockout on the wrist, and to showcase the dial, we’ve paired it with a rich brown suede that’s both comfortable and versatile. It’s unpolished and completely original aside from a replacement crystal. Post service, it’s keeping near perfect time, and yes, i was able to locate each one of the 39 jewels mentioned. It’s worth noting that six of them are bright red ball bearings that serve the axle of the rotor; a feature we’ve not seen on another Seiko movement to this point. A rare benchmark in Seiko luxury, it’s sure to be true highlight in any collection.

CNS Retro Brown Suede Leather with Copper Stitch

Serviced 8/23

Diameter- 37mm

Lugs- 18mm